Sunday, 29 July 2018

Thailand - The streets of Bangkok

We went on an eleven day tour of Thailand in November, 2017. I didn't have time to blog about it until just now - please join me on this trip to this exotic country where people are gentle and courteous and the temples and palaces ornate and over the top.  

Our first stop was Bangkok, the capital. We arrived a couple of days before the tour so we could explore the city. We've heard how bad traffic was in the city, aggravated by the year long mourning period for the death of the king. We booked a local guide with Your Thai Guide, to take us out for the day - she took us to the places we wanted to see taking local transportation like the locals do. It was a great experience allowing us to mingle with the locals on buses, skytrain and boats; we walked the streets, took tuk tuks and taxis - whichever was the quickest way to get us to our destination. 

We went from the modern streets with its skyscrapers to the old part of town with its maze of narrow side streets and back alleys where the street food reminded me of Vietnamese cities. There was also that quaint mix of old and new that manifested itself in buildings, boats and even shrines. Thai people are very religious - there are shrines and worshippers in every street corner. The king was treated almost like a god and signs of tribute were still everywhere a year after his death. The cremation was the week before our arrival and there were immense crowds and long lineups to pay tribute to his ashes.

At the end of the day our guide Nina found us a multi-storied bar where we can enjoy the sunset over the beautiful Temple of Dawn (Wat Arun) over a refreshing drink. Finding a spot to have a break was not easy as many of the places by the waterfront were already booked for dinners to celebrate Loy Krathong, the Festival of Light, which fell on that day. We had booked a dinner cruise ourselves that evening for the same reason and Nina showed us the way to our embarkation point and even arranged for an uber ride to pick us up at the end of the cruise so we won't be at the mercy of taxi drivers that typically would rip off tourists.
(Watch out for my writeup of the special Loy Krathong dinner on the Food Blog Food Sparks)

We were thankful for our guide's help which made our day in Bangkok such a memorable one. Below are some photos of the streets as we saw it on that very long day.  We visited temples and museums too, but I'm starting with the streets of Bangkok...

Practical tips:
- if you are going out at night, try to arrange ahead of time for a taxi or uber to pick you up rather than just hailing one off the curb. Taxi drivers sometimes charge exorbitant fares if there is a special event going on.
- hire a local guide to take you around if you don't have very much time and a lot of places you want to see. Traffic is really bad in the city and the guides know how to get you around.

Floating flower baskets with candles for Loy Krathong (Festival of Lights that fell on the full moon in November) - these are ready to be purchased for the evening celebration where candles are lit and the baskets put in the water together with wishes.



Some of the baskets were prepared right at the roadside stall


The whole family helped out with making the baskets

School children learned to make them at school - great mentoring opportunities too

And even Barbie had her own ice cream cone float!
Or it can be a very simple wax candle...  











 
Devout worshippers at the Erawan Shrine in downtown Bangkok


Traditional dance performers at the shrine

A modern shrine at the corner of a modern building

But it could be right in the middle of a parking lot too...

An old fashioned dock in front of glass and steel

A motorized high speed boat but with traditional decor

Here's an old barge with a stove probably used to transport a street hawker and his equipment
 It was interesting to see the monks, whom I have always regarded as apart from this world, going about their daily lives like us mere mortals...

A consultation session at the temple - cash donations happily accepted

He's only human - cash transfers from the big bin to the one beside him


   
Taking a break - it's a hot day!
Taking a shortcut through the back alleys



Some back alleys are fancier than others


This is the usual lineup at a traffic light - see how many lanes of traffic there are!

The king's portrait lined the main boulevard
From the back of a tuk tuk

A modern Sky train system

One of my surprise portrait encounters - I didn't realize there are so many Muslims in Thailand

Yummy street food

Look at those giant lobster claws!

Street food night market

Our dinner cruise embarked from a glitzy mall - River City

An elaborately embroidered wall carpet in one of the mall shops

Beautiful orchids at the Flower Market

The Loy Krathong table on the dinner cruise

The Rama VIII bridge lit up at night
The beautiful sunset over the Wat Arun (Temple of Dawn)

Sunday, 22 July 2018

The Stunning Isle of Skye

We crossed the bridge to the Isle of Skye in late afternoon just as the rain was ending and as luck would have it, the sun broke through the clouds as it was setting and shone an ethereal light on Portree harbour. It bode well for the following day when we had a full day to see the key sights on the island. It would have been great if we could actually spend a week hiking on the island, but that was not for this trip.

The day was cloudy but we were thankful it was at least dry. The Old Man of Storr, our first stop, was mostly hidden behind fog, so we moved on to see other sights, including Kilt Rock and Staffin beach. We had lunch at a nice family run restaurant with a view of "McLeod's tables"; of course the table mountains were also half hidden in fog. 

The Quirang was for me the high point of this trip - such a stunning  area that I don't have words for it.  It would have been great to do the trail here but it was classified as "hard", meaning, beyond our reach; however, the view alone was worth the trip. 

We were lucky too that the weather held up right to the end when we hit the western tip of the island at Neist Point. It was so windy I felt I could be easily blown over the cliff; it rather reminded me of Cape Spear, Canada's most easterly point on Newfoundland. It was difficult holding the camera still in the wind. There was an incredible white flower that looked like cotton blowing in the wind (we found out later it is called Cottongrass) - it was amazing that it could hold its own in the gale force winds. After we got on the bus to leave, it started drizzling again. We came back to Portree just in time for a Jacob's ladder to shine its eerie light on the harbour.  

Before we left Skye in the morning, we made a stop to see the Cuillin mountain range. I saw people taking photos down by the river  and followed to see what kind of view it was like down there. It didn't seem to be worth the risk of falling in and I was about to leave when a very kindly guide from another group told me to go to the farthest edge. Seeing how wobbly I was, he came over to give me a hand and in fact had he held on to my shoulder as I stood on the edge of the rapids to take that iconic photo of the Cuillin framed by the arch of the bridge. I was so moved by his kindness I wanted to give him a hug, but he left to go back to his group. It wasn't so much the iconic image but the unexpected touch of human kindness from a stranger that made this a worthwhile memory - something to remember Scotland by.

Practical tip:
- if you are staying in Portree, make sure you book ahead for dinner at one of the restaurants. There aren't that many restaurants at the port but a lot of tourists!



Portree inlet in the golden hour

Portree - we stayed at the Pink House

I love this brick building - a community hall

The early bird catches the worm, the early photographer catches the bird...;-)


 I got up early to see if the sun would shine on the houses in the morning, but got this grey heron instead. It was totally unexpected so I didn't have the right lens with me.  

Starling looking for food

Old Man of Storr seen from afar; of course, when we got close enough, we couldn't see a thing, except for the largest rock!

The only rock visible - this must be the old man...
Scottish thistle - Scotland's national flower - prickly!

Another lovely waterfall on Skye


Love the wildness!

There was more to the cliff than what you could see on top

Mealt Falls in the foreforground; Kilt Rock which resembles the pleats on a kilt in the background

Mealt Falls closeup

Staffin Beach



McLeod's Tables - half hidden

The Quirang - my favourite! The Quirang walk is 6.8 km long, rated as difficult, 2 hours to complete with no stops...



The panorama of the Quirang, both sides of the valley


Dunvegan Castle

Seals on the island (seal watching boat on the lake)

Heather in bloom

Lush pastures on Skye



Neist Point - the western tip of the island

Cottongrass


Scottish blackface


Back to Portree, just in time to see sun rays on the harbour


Hooded crow

The Black Cuillin - for me a scenic spot where I encountered the kindness of a stranger; for climbers, a mecca - the most challenging and spectacular mountains in Britain.  Wish I could get closer - this is too far away to get the real feel of the mountains. But I could feel Scotland here...
I say goodbye to Scotland with fondness and a definite "I shall return"...