Thursday, 29 August 2024

Newfoundland & Labrador - St. Pierre et Michelon

St. John's was a great start to the two week adventure!   We flew to St. Pierre and Michelon the following day to embark on this cruise to one of the more remote parts of eastern Canada, going along the south shore of Newfoundland then up the west coast to Labrador eventually disembarking in Iqualuit, Nunavut.  

Now of course, St. Pierre (et Michelon) is neither Newfoundland nor Labrador, it's not even Canadian!  We had to have our passports stamped.  It's the obligatory "international" port that the ship had to call at on every voyage.  I was really looking forward to seeing this archipelago of eight islands at the southern tip of Newfoundland with its interesting history as a vestige of New France, territory colonized by the French in North America and the battleground between Britain and France for centuries. Its residents are French citizens with voting privileges. You can read about the interesting background of the islands in Wikapaedia.

We only visited the town of St. Pierre so did not really get a good picture of the islands.  But the town was strangely quiet on a Monday.  You will see from the pictures that there were hardly any people around other than us tourists.  Someone told us the residents take a siesta break in the European tradition for a couple of hours at noon and shops are closed so that could be the reason. 

The locals welcomed us with a traditional dance performance and we wandered around the town for a couple of hours before we boarded the ship.  It is hard to get a good feel for a place without people.  The houses are colourful but seem oddly incompatible with their size.  The museum was the most interesting stop in the town.

These reminded me of toy blocks I played with as a child


There are some fairly new builldings downtown - it's interesting to see a man walking a horse down the main street in the middle of the day



Traditional dance by the locals




These cannons no doubt had been heavily used in the many battles between the Brits and the French


The lighthouse at La Pointe aux Canons 

These colourful houses look too big to be just beach houses - maybe holiday homes?


The port




The Visitor Centre with its mural depicting the many activities in the town

A mural of a religious procession inside the museum 




Vintage French rhum and whiskey jugs in the museum




A beautiful vintage lighthouse beacon





















A number of us would have liked to see the inside of the church but all its doors were locked.


The interesting church door made one wish to see what's inside


Here are some snaps of some of the buildings in town to give you an idea





One of the few locals on the street






An unexpected grotto with the Virgin Mary up on a rocky wall facing the sea - probably to safeguard the men going to sea





and finally it's time to board the ship!



A view of the town and harbour as the ship sailed - into the sunset...




Tuesday, 27 August 2024

Newfoundland & Labrador - St. John's

Labrador has some stunningly spectacular scenery, especially the Torngat Mountains, but it is a hard to get to place, not easily accessible without long hikes over difficult terrain.  A cruise on Adventure Canada's Ocean Endeavour allowed us to experience the scenic province without overly stretching our physical abilities.  

We started off in Newfoundland, arriving a day early in July to visit Quidi Vidi that I missed on the last visit and also revisited some of the old favourites like Jellybean row.  Between Uber and walking we managed to cover quite a bit of the city, from the rustic charm of Quidi Vidi, the Battery and all the way into town, going past Jelly Bean Row, circling back to Bannerman Park (because we saw people with gelato from the Parlour) then up to the Rooms before heading back downtown to the waterfront and the Pedestrian Mall.  It was a long rambling walk but it was great reviving fond memories of the colourful city.

Newfoundland is notorious for its dull dreary weather.  Maybe that's why St. John's made a point of being colourful to alleviate the dreariness.  Everywhere you look there is colour and it really stands out because of the constantly grey skies.  


Quidi Vidi exactly the way it looked in the pictures







View of the harbour entrance from the Battery

Colourful ruins?

Even the huge ships in the harbour are colourful

Standing out in the midst of all the colour - a black and white mural



The best ever seafood chowder at the Bernard Stanley Gastropub that we just stumbled upon




Jellybean row




The Hop-on hop-off buss



Such a whimsical statue!


A sampling of the colourful fronts of houses and their mailboxes



The Basilica Cathedral


First time I've seen the tap function used for church donations
The Rooms revisited


Downtown mural alley

The Harbour framed

What a great backdrop for this street drummer



The downtown pedestrian mall - could be busier on a Sunday evening





Can't get more colourful than this!