Tuesday, 19 November 2024
Silk Road - Lanzhou Yellow River Stone Forest
The Silk Road has been on my agenda for many years but reports from earlier travellers of a long, strenuous journey with not much good food helped to push it off my travel plans until this year when a friend suggested what seemed like a doable tour this September. Of course things have changed over the years. We ended up with a remarkably memorable trip, filled with historical contexts, although still strenuous because of long distances but definitely we travelled in comfort with lots of delicious food and exceptional lodgings. The tradeoff is, many of the places we visited are no longer exotic horse and wagon country but sophisticated big cities filled with highway access ramps and SUVs. It's a good thing then that it is scenery and not culture that is the focus of this Northern Xinjiang tour.
The tour started in Lanzhou and not Xian as many Silk Road tours did, but since I've been to Xian twenty odd years ago, I'd rather keep the old memories of this ancient city rather than have them spoilt by new ones of a modern city.
We arrived a day earlier so we can do a private tour of the Yellow River Stone Forest, a two hour drive from Lanzhou. The red loess of the Yellow River basin surrounded us wherever we turned. It certainly reminded me of the American Southwest, the red earth in Sedona and the hoodoos in Bryce Canyon. From the Visitor Centre, we were taken on electric buses through the 22 hairpin bends of the road that showed us the Stone Forest from different angles on the road.
In the riverside village of Old Longwan, where we had lunch at a local home, we were able to see the Yellow River and its yellow waters in all its meandering glory. The ride on the inflated sheepskin raft, which I had dreaded when I first saw it as part of the tour (think - non-swimmer!), turned out to be an amazing experience bringing us ever so closer to the "mother river" - all caution tossed to the wind! The raft was an ancient form of transportation and it took us closer to the Stone Forest entrance.
We then took a ride on a shuttle bus into the Stone Forest trail. We got off half way into the canyon so we can experience the "forest". The big disappointment was we were not able to get a panoramic view of the stone forest itself from a viewing platform that was formerly accessible by cable car, but this was no longer available. It would be too long and difficult a hike for us and we needed another two hours to get back to Lanzhou.
Note: There is another "Stone Forest" in China - Shilin in Yunnan Province, these are limestone and therefore completel different.
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| It took a whole day for us to get to Lanzhou from Hong Kong. This is the nightview from our hotel room, |
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| Our first bowl of the famous Lanzhou noodles at breakfast the following morning |
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| On the way to the Stone Forest - a glimpse of the city |
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| One of the first things I noticed - extensive erosion control on the slopes on both sides of the highway. Loess is one of the softest soil on earth. |
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| This reminded me of the drive from Sedona to Page in Arizona. |
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| Baiyin City as we approached the Stone Forest |
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| Panorama of the Stone Forest National Geological Park, the Visitor Centre and the Old Longwan village |
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| Views near the top of the road |
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| The Yellow River meandering through its basin - you can see one of the hairpin bends on the road |
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| Corn fields just outside the village at the foot of the Stone Forest |
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| The village decorated to welcome visitors |
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| The dining room of the village house where we ate lunch |
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| This is the village store although we didn't see any villagers around |
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| The village waterfront |
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| One of many waterwheels we would see along the Yellow River |
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| The raft we would be sitting on - made of inflated sheepskin |
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| The three of us sat back to back behind the paddler |
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| The raft had to be carried up the steps! Photo credit: Steed 陳天騎 |
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| Our view from the middle of the river |
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| Couldn't believe my luck, encountering a lifer in the middle of the river - a pair of Eastern spot-billed ducks |
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| Near the entrance of the trail through the Stone Forest |
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| Trail inside the Stone Forest |
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| We were actually walking through a canyon with these huge formations on both sides of the trail |
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| These hoodoos reminded me of the ones in Bryce Canyon in Arizona. There are many interpretations of the "faces", "figures" and "animals" that the rocks resembled, a lot of mythical beasts and characters - great place for an active imagination! |
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| An evil conjurer with a long-beard...? |
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| An orangutan? |
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| The hoodoo at the top had been named "Monkey King on his pilgrimage to get the western scriptures" |
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These panoramas give us a sense of the scale of the land we just visited. It's a remarkable area, no wonder people get emotional about the Yellow River. |
Thursday, 21 November 2024
Since Lanzhou is the start off point of our Silk Road tour, the first day is an obligatory tour of the city. The most important thing on the itinerary is a guided tour of the Gansu Provincial Museum which houses artefacts from across the centuries and gave us a good introduction to the historical background of the Silk Road. We were then taken to lunch at a specialty Lanzhou noodle place where we were treated to a live demonstration of how the noodles were made. The best treat was the lamb rack - it was so good we actually asked for a second helping!
After lunch, we were given complimentary foot massages at a special foot massage parlour. Foot massage is an important health treatment in Chinese medicine as it frees up the energy flow to the different organs in the body. It certainly felt great and relaxing. I chatted with the massager and she even gave me permission to take a photo of her. These ladies work long hours into the small hours because apparently customers would come in at the end of a long day after business engagements.
The Zhongshan Bridge in Lanzhou is the first permanent bridge built over the Yellow River in Lanzhou. The steel truss bridge originally named "First Bridge" was renamed Zhonghsan in honour Dr. Sun Yat-sen. There were lots of tourists and locals on the bridge and in the adjacent gardens. A great place for people watching - I didn't expect to be able to do street photography in Lanzhou!
There are many water wheels along the Yellow River in Lanzhou and we stopped at the water wheel garden to see two of these wheels and also watched a demonstration of how the sheepskin is inflated for the rafts which we rode on the day before in the Stone Forest. Then it's on to dinner with another 10 course meal. This will be the pattern for the next 12 days - our meals always include fish, different meats, soup and a variety of vegetables and of course dessert. Our guide had specified "low fat low salt" to the kitchen at every stop and this was followed to the best of their ability in most cases. Our guide made a point of letting us try different local beers at every stop. We got a glimpse of Lanzhou at night on the way back to the hotel to get ready for the long day ahead of us on the road to Zhangye, our next stop.
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| The Gansu Provincial Museum with its famous Flying Horse |
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| Flying Horse Sculpture from Eastern Han Dynasty (2nd century AD) |
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| This carved unicorn from Han Dynasty (202BC) is my favourite piece |
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| Silk Road Map in the museum |
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| Many riders have this cover in different materials |
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| Breakfast street food carts are everywhere |
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| These streetfood carts are towed by motor cycles to their working locations everyday. |
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| Shops selling interesting goods - like safes... |
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| Lanzhou noodles made with different flour for differen purposes |
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| Most delicious lamb rack |
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At the entrance to the foot massage palace, a statue of Shennong (Divine Farmer) mythological Chinese ruler who has become a deity in folklore - credited with various inventions including the hoe, plow, the Chinese farmer's almanac, and the use of herbal medicine. |
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| Beautiful riverfront park |
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| Popular place for tourists |
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| Zhongshan Bridge - first permanent bridge across the Yellow River |
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 View of Lanzhou from the bridge |
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| The sculpture representing the Yellow River as the "Mother River" |
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| Double waterwheels in the Waterwheel Garden |
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| Blowing up the sheepskin that is being used to float the rafts on the river as a historical mode of transportation (see previous post on Stone Forest) |
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| A shopping street for cultural goods |
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| Delicious dessert made with edible lily and papaya |
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| On the way back to the hotel we got a glimpse of Lanzhou at night from the river |
Saturday, 23 November 2024
Silk Road - Zhangye
Zhangye is more than 500 miles from Lanzhou and it took us more than 3 hours even on the bullet train. But going on the train is in itself quite an experience. The train station is huge and we were lucky we did not drag along our checked-in bags as the platforms are at different levels. Our bags were forwarded by bus to Zhangye so we only had our carryon luggage with us. The ride in the train car was comfortable, and the time went quickly. We passed by several high plains, includindg the Qinghai Plateau, the Tibetan Plateau, and the famous Qilian mountains.
The high-speed train station
Passing through the plateaux
Our first stop after arriving at Zhangye was the Danxia Geological Park where the Rainbow mountains are. There are many viewpoints at the park, they all involve climbing steps to different platforms. There were no crowds and we were able to take all the photos we like from the viewing platforms. There are no hikes in these parks.
This is the appropriately named Crouching tiger mountain.
We were lucky to be in the park during the golden hour, with the red rocks catching the sun's rays and showing us their best colours
I'm glad we didn't have to climb this steep one!
The reason why there were no crowds at our viewing platform is because there are different levels of entrance fees at the park. Tour groups are given access to different platforms from individual travellers. This is the platform where non-tour groups go.
We drove through the park to a canyon for a hike on the boardwalk. This landscape reminds me of the Stone Forest. It is also dotted with hoodoos and all kinds of rock forms that can be interpreted in whichever your imagination takes you.
An easy hike along the boardwalk - no crowds, something to treasure because it would be the last time we get a tourist attraction all to ourselves!
Very much like the Stone Forest landscape
I thought Nefertiti had moved to China!
Two camels?
There are many caves!
The drive through the red canyons is reminiscent of Zion National Park in Arizona
A different palette here but also partly because the sun is no longer on the rocks.
An unusual sight - a pine tree in the middle of this barren landscape? I blew it up on my screen and found that it is a fake tree used to hide the cell phone tower! Not sure which is more awkward.
An exciting afternoon at the park! We moved on to dinner and then the hotel. It's a long day but totally worth it.
An unsual fish at lunch today - wish I could remember the name!
Stuffed red dates and lily for dessert - all the healthy stuff!
Beautiful lake in the garden of the Zhangye Hotel
In the morning, before we left Zhangye, we visited the Dafo Temple which has the longest wood buddha in China. Our very scholarly local guide, gave us the historical background to the temple which was built in the 12th century in the Western Xia period in the style of palace temples. The big reclining Buddha was damaged during the Cultural Revolution but has been restored; it is now undergoing a second restoration. There is a story that Kublai Khan was born at the temple when his mother was living there. 6,000 volumes of Buddhist scriptures survived in the temple. In the garden there is a statue of a nun who risked her life to protect the scriptures.
The entrance to the hall housing the buddha
The head of the 35 metre long Buddha
Love the expressions on the faces of these "lohans" (followers) of Buddha
The sign in front of these lohans suggested that there is no need for a monetary donation to pray and be blessed.
This "Gold & Silver Scriptures" from the Ming Dynasty (14th eentury)
The statue of the nun who safeguarded the scriptures
This tower holds the ashes of an important high priest
This long post covers a day and a half in Zhangye. After the temple visit we went back on our bus for the 3 hour trip to Jiayuguan, the second important post along the Silk Road.
Zhangye is more than 500 miles from Lanzhou and it took us more than 3 hours even on the bullet train. But going on the train is in itself quite an experience. The train station is huge and we were lucky we did not drag along our checked-in bags as the platforms are at different levels. Our bags were forwarded by bus to Zhangye so we only had our carryon luggage with us. The ride in the train car was comfortable, and the time went quickly. We passed by several high plains, includindg the Qinghai Plateau, the Tibetan Plateau, and the famous Qilian mountains.
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The high-speed train station |
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Passing through the plateaux |
Our first stop after arriving at Zhangye was the Danxia Geological Park where the Rainbow mountains are. There are many viewpoints at the park, they all involve climbing steps to different platforms. There were no crowds and we were able to take all the photos we like from the viewing platforms. There are no hikes in these parks.
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| This is the appropriately named Crouching tiger mountain. |
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| We were lucky to be in the park during the golden hour, with the red rocks catching the sun's rays and showing us their best colours |
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| I'm glad we didn't have to climb this steep one! |
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| The reason why there were no crowds at our viewing platform is because there are different levels of entrance fees at the park. Tour groups are given access to different platforms from individual travellers. This is the platform where non-tour groups go. |
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| An easy hike along the boardwalk - no crowds, something to treasure because it would be the last time we get a tourist attraction all to ourselves! |
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| Very much like the Stone Forest landscape |
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| I thought Nefertiti had moved to China! |
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| Two camels? |
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| The drive through the red canyons is reminiscent of Zion National Park in Arizona |
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A different palette here but also partly because the sun is no longer on the rocks. |
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| An unusual sight - a pine tree in the middle of this barren landscape? I blew it up on my screen and found that it is a fake tree used to hide the cell phone tower! Not sure which is more awkward. |
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| An unsual fish at lunch today - wish I could remember the name! |
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| Stuffed red dates and lily for dessert - all the healthy stuff! |
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| Beautiful lake in the garden of the Zhangye Hotel |
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| The entrance to the hall housing the buddha |
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| The head of the 35 metre long Buddha |
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Love the expressions on the faces of these "lohans" (followers) of Buddha |
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| The sign in front of these lohans suggested that there is no need for a monetary donation to pray and be blessed. |
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| This "Gold & Silver Scriptures" from the Ming Dynasty (14th eentury) |
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| The statue of the nun who safeguarded the scriptures |
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| This tower holds the ashes of an important high priest |
This long post covers a day and a half in Zhangye. After the temple visit we went back on our bus for the 3 hour trip to Jiayuguan, the second important post along the Silk Road.
Monday, 25 November 2024
Silk Road - Jiayuguan
Jiayuguan (Pass) was the furthermost point of the ancient Great Wall in the northwest built in the Ming Dynasty (14th century), strategically located in the narrowest part of the Hexi Corridor and an important defense area for China since the Han Dynasty (BC202). It was also an important hub on the Silk Road. The Great Wall and the fortress were restored. Years ago, I was at the section of the Great Wall in Badaling near Beijing - it looked ancient. The Great Wall at Jiayuguan looked modern - bit of a disappointment but we were still on ancient ground, just need a bit more imagination...
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| The Great Wall at Jiayuguan It took us three hours on the bus to get to Jiayuguan from Zhangye but the time went quickly as our scholarly local guide kept us occupied with his continuing series of lectures on Chinese history. He spoke with such passion it was hard not to pay attention!  And here's a note for some of my friends who are contemplating an independent road trip in the area. There are frequent rest stops like you would see in North America, with gas, toilets, groceries, food and even dish-washing facilities. We stopped at what looked like a truck stop and it seems that some drivers brought along their wives to cook for them. I saw one of them washing her pots in the dish-washing area.    We had lunch at a noodle place when we got to Jiayuguan City - that was quite a culinary experience. They brought us nine different kinds of noodles and we selected our own accompanying ingredients from an array of options as you can see below. |
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| Black rice noodles are the best! |
We climbed the wall the afternoon we arrived at Jiayuguan. It seemed a bit daunting as it was late in the day and I didn't think I could make it to the top. It was not a scenic area so the hike was purely a physical challenge. I did make it to the top, thanks to some cheerleading from fellow travellers. As usual, the return trip was harder on the knees but it was faster and it was great to be greeted with a reviving treat of water melon at the foot of the wall.
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| The last stretch! |
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| Looking back from the tower |
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| The view on the other side of the tower |
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| Emerging from the other side of the tower and faced with thousands of love locks |
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| The view on the way down |
The ancient fortress was the focus of the following morning at Jiayuguan. There were some original steel doors at the fortress entrance but the walls and ramparts looked very "restored". It was interesting walking on the ramparts and visualizeing what defenders of the fortress had to deal with.
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| The impressive thick walls of the fortress |
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| Metal doors at the gate |
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| Temple to Guan Gong, warrior guardian |
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| General's residence inside the grounds |
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| The fortress and ramparts were very impressive. Walking along the ramparts helped recreate the history of this key defence post in China's farthest reaches in the northwest. |
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| I find the different perspectives of looking at the inside walls from above and below very interesting - imagining war horses galloping in to deliver important military intelligence...;-) |
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| And here's one guy who could indulge in all that imaginative play! |
After the visit to the fortress, we made the five hour drive to Dunhuang in time for dinner. The most interesting thing at dinner in Dunhuang was how the chicken was served - whole and not chopped up. I had seen this on TV but didn't realize this was how chicken was served in this part of the country.
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| Fish of the day |
Wednesday, 27 November 2024
Silk Road - Dunhuang
We are finally at Dunhuang, the legendary city - strategically important because of its location at the crossroads of two important trade routes running north and south of the Talamakan desert. It is also situated on the western edge of the Gobi Desert and north of the Mingsha Dunes, making it an important rest stop for merchants and pilgrims from every direction. During the Han Dynasty (206 BC to 220 AD) a commandery was established there to protect the region. Pilgrims came because Dunhuang was an ancient site of Buddhist learning, evidenced by the 492 Mogao caves chock full of Silk Road history since the 4th century.
We arrived in Dunhuang at dinner time and went for a walk in the colourful night market after dinner - a good opportunity for some street photography. The following morning was dedicated to seeing the Mogao Caves. There were long line-ups early in the morning and we were thankful our special tour group request for two official guides was approved and we went straight to the caves led by the two guides. There were so many caves, everyone got to see different caves, so we were not really "cutting in line", so to speak.
I hope you won't be disappointed because photos were not allowed in the caves. I have included two photos of a replica at the Dunhuang Museum which we visited the following morning. While disappointing, I found that I actually enjoyed the break from taking photos. It helped me pay attention to every word the guide said knowing that my memory would be the only thing that I could turn to to remember this legendary spot.
The guides were extremely knowledgeable and pointed out important elements to us, including the difference between restorations done in the Tang Dynasty (619-907) versus those done in the Qing Dynasty (1614-1912). The restoration handwork and painting done during the Tang were much more refined than the more recent ones done during the Qing Dynasty - in fact after a couple of caves we were able to identify the differences ourselves. It was an intense morning focusing on the content delivered in perfect Mandarin by the guides (thankful especially because good Mandarin delivered lecture-style is much easier to understand for us non-native speakers).
The afternoon is supposed to be a relaxing visit to the Mingsha Dunes. But the obligatory camel ride has its tense moments until I reminded myself to relax and go with the bump and hump of the camel's rhythm. After the ride we visited the dunes, some visitors climbed the dunes but I settled for a walk around Crescent Lake. We spent a second night in Dunhuang, in the beautiful Silk Road Dunhuang Hotel, in itself an experience with its traditional decor and long lantern-lit corridors. It also happened to be the night of the Mid-Autumn festival and we shared moon cakes - the traditional buildings are such a romantic backdrop.
The goddess playing the Chinese musical instrument "Pipa" from behind her back is a landmark in Dunhaung city centre. It was inspired by an image in the Mogao Caves.
Both sides of the entrance to the Dunhuang Night Market
There were both street booths and store fronts
The lamps here reminded me of Istanbul
Street artists working on the spot
Pretty teen all dressed up in local garb - seems to be the trend. The couple walking behind her could be her parents.
A few blocks of restaurants and street food stands - quite a gathering place, not just for tourists but for locals too
Street singer had beautiful voice that seemed much appreciated by her audience. The signs on the restarants were advertising "Almond skin tea" - I didn't see this until I look at the photos at home. Would have loved to try that.
Dunhuang streets were decorated for the Mid-Autumn Festival
Sunrise atop the Dunhuang Silk Road Hotel where the Minsgha Dunes were visible giving us an enticing foretaste of the upcoming visit
Mingsha Dunes in the sunrise glow
The Mogao Caves in their more natural state - unlike the section we were allowed to visit
The caves that are open to visitors have all been built up outside with staircases at different levels.
This is a multistorey cave
Some old structures are still around
This Nine-storey Temple houses the largest sitting Buddha in Dunhuang. Built in the Tang Dynasty (695 AD), it is an indication of the prosperity and economic stability of that Dynasty.
The entrance gate to the caves
The impressive Mogao Caves Digital Exhibition Centre which we didn't visit
he Mingsha Dunes with camel rides
Riders were loaned orange cloth boots which did a great job of keeping the sand out of shoes and still allow visitors to walk easily on the sand
Crescent Moon Lake
Many hired professional photographers to take photos of themselves in costume
The climb up the dunes. In hindsight, I wish I had made the effort to get up there - probably missed a fantastic panorama of the dunes...
The Dunhuang Silk Road Hotel and its long lantern-lit corridors
Castle-like entrance to the hotel
Entrance to the spa
Full moon rising from behind the courtyard
We visited the Dunhuang Museum the following morning before the long trip to Turpan. The museum has a cave replica which you can see below.
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Ceiling of the cave - each of the icons on the ceiling are different
Almanac from the Han Dynasty on bamboo
An exquisite window on the museum wall
It would be 2.5 hours just to get to the LiuYuan train station from Dunhuang then another 3 hour ride on the bullet train to Turpan. Tomorrow we would be crossing the border into Xinjiang autonomous regions. Security at the train station was very tight - we had to go through security twice, just to enter the train station and then to board.
Interesting to see an RV on the highway
We had dinner on the train.
By the time we got to Turpan, the sun was setting.
Next post: Turpan, Xinjiang
We are finally at Dunhuang, the legendary city - strategically important because of its location at the crossroads of two important trade routes running north and south of the Talamakan desert. It is also situated on the western edge of the Gobi Desert and north of the Mingsha Dunes, making it an important rest stop for merchants and pilgrims from every direction. During the Han Dynasty (206 BC to 220 AD) a commandery was established there to protect the region. Pilgrims came because Dunhuang was an ancient site of Buddhist learning, evidenced by the 492 Mogao caves chock full of Silk Road history since the 4th century.
We arrived in Dunhuang at dinner time and went for a walk in the colourful night market after dinner - a good opportunity for some street photography. The following morning was dedicated to seeing the Mogao Caves. There were long line-ups early in the morning and we were thankful our special tour group request for two official guides was approved and we went straight to the caves led by the two guides. There were so many caves, everyone got to see different caves, so we were not really "cutting in line", so to speak.
I hope you won't be disappointed because photos were not allowed in the caves. I have included two photos of a replica at the Dunhuang Museum which we visited the following morning. While disappointing, I found that I actually enjoyed the break from taking photos. It helped me pay attention to every word the guide said knowing that my memory would be the only thing that I could turn to to remember this legendary spot.
The guides were extremely knowledgeable and pointed out important elements to us, including the difference between restorations done in the Tang Dynasty (619-907) versus those done in the Qing Dynasty (1614-1912). The restoration handwork and painting done during the Tang were much more refined than the more recent ones done during the Qing Dynasty - in fact after a couple of caves we were able to identify the differences ourselves. It was an intense morning focusing on the content delivered in perfect Mandarin by the guides (thankful especially because good Mandarin delivered lecture-style is much easier to understand for us non-native speakers).
The afternoon is supposed to be a relaxing visit to the Mingsha Dunes. But the obligatory camel ride has its tense moments until I reminded myself to relax and go with the bump and hump of the camel's rhythm. After the ride we visited the dunes, some visitors climbed the dunes but I settled for a walk around Crescent Lake. We spent a second night in Dunhuang, in the beautiful Silk Road Dunhuang Hotel, in itself an experience with its traditional decor and long lantern-lit corridors. It also happened to be the night of the Mid-Autumn festival and we shared moon cakes - the traditional buildings are such a romantic backdrop.
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| The goddess playing the Chinese musical instrument "Pipa" from behind her back is a landmark in Dunhaung city centre. It was inspired by an image in the Mogao Caves. |
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| Both sides of the entrance to the Dunhuang Night Market |
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| There were both street booths and store fronts |
 |
| The lamps here reminded me of Istanbul |
 |
| Street artists working on the spot |
 |
| Pretty teen all dressed up in local garb - seems to be the trend. The couple walking behind her could be her parents. |
 |
| A few blocks of restaurants and street food stands - quite a gathering place, not just for tourists but for locals too |
 |
| Street singer had beautiful voice that seemed much appreciated by her audience. The signs on the restarants were advertising "Almond skin tea" - I didn't see this until I look at the photos at home. Would have loved to try that. |
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| Dunhuang streets were decorated for the Mid-Autumn Festival |
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| Sunrise atop the Dunhuang Silk Road Hotel where the Minsgha Dunes were visible giving us an enticing foretaste of the upcoming visit |
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| Mingsha Dunes in the sunrise glow |
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| The Mogao Caves in their more natural state - unlike the section we were allowed to visit |
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The caves that are open to visitors have all been built up outside with staircases at different levels. |
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| This is a multistorey cave |
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| Some old structures are still around |
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| This Nine-storey Temple houses the largest sitting Buddha in Dunhuang. Built in the Tang Dynasty (695 AD), it is an indication of the prosperity and economic stability of that Dynasty. |
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The entrance gate to the caves |
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| The impressive Mogao Caves Digital Exhibition Centre which we didn't visit |
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he Mingsha Dunes with camel rides |
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| Riders were loaned orange cloth boots which did a great job of keeping the sand out of shoes and still allow visitors to walk easily on the sand |
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| Crescent Moon Lake |
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| Many hired professional photographers to take photos of themselves in costume |
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| The climb up the dunes. In hindsight, I wish I had made the effort to get up there - probably missed a fantastic panorama of the dunes... |
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| The Dunhuang Silk Road Hotel and its long lantern-lit corridors |
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| Castle-like entrance to the hotel |
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| Entrance to the spa |
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| Full moon rising from behind the courtyard |
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We visited the Dunhuang Museum the following morning before the long trip to Turpan. The museum has a cave replica which you can see below. |
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| Ceiling of the cave - each of the icons on the ceiling are different |
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| Almanac from the Han Dynasty on bamboo |
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| An exquisite window on the museum wall |
It would be 2.5 hours just to get to the LiuYuan train station from Dunhuang then another 3 hour ride on the bullet train to Turpan. Tomorrow we would be crossing the border into Xinjiang autonomous regions. Security at the train station was very tight - we had to go through security twice, just to enter the train station and then to board.
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| Interesting to see an RV on the highway |
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| We had dinner on the train. By the time we got to Turpan, the sun was setting. Next post: Turpan, Xinjiang |
Saturday, 30 November 2024
Silk Road - Turpan
Our first stop in Xinjiang is Turpan, an important city on the Silk Road because it is at the centre of an oasis in the Talamakan desert. The moment we entered Turpan we noticed how the architecture is different from the Chinese cities we have visited so far. The building decorations reminded me of those seen in Turkey. Turpan is 77% Uyghur with the rest being made up of Han Chinese and other ethnic groups. Uyghur is a Turkic language and while written signs resembled Arabic, it is modified and not exactly Arabic. According to our guide, they could not understand each other. Interethnic marriage is encouraged - there is an incentive of 40,000RMB awarded.
The Jiaohe Ruins are on the eastern edge of Turpan and we stopped there first. The ruins are supposed to be the best preserved city of raw-earth buildings in the world. Built on an island in between two rivers, the city was constructed out of the loess soil dug out of the ground. The soil was excavated leaving underground rooms while the soil dug out was rammed to build rooms above ground. The city was destroyed by Genghis Khan in the 13th century during an invasion and was subsequently abandoned. We spent a good part of the morning walking around the city, checking out the interesting building ruins, including what's left of a big temple and its grounds.
We visited the centre demonstrating the karez wells system and how it distributed water through the city via underground and open canals, vertical wells and dams. There are apparently over 1100 karez wells in Turpan distributing water through 5000 kilometres of canals. The water came from the glaciers in Xinjiang and are of course threatened by global warming.
Uyghur dancers provided entertainment both at the karez centre and at the country style restaurant at lunch. A delicious whole roasted goat was served for our group. After lunch we visited the famous Flaming Mountain just outside of Turpan. The mountain was impressive red sandstone with many grooves on its walls and likely would look like flames if it was hit by the setting sun. The ground in the area was also very hot - when we were there, we tasted the eggs that were cooked in the red earth with heat from the sun sold by a vendor.
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| Jiaohe Old City was built on a plateau with steep walls on the sides, a natural fortress with apparently only two gates |
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| The river acted as a natural moat |
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| The main passage into the city |
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| Buildings on both sides |
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The buildings went as far as the eye could see to the mountains |
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| Panorama of part of the ruins from a viewpoint. The part open to the public is only a fraction of the old city. |
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| The approach to the big Temple |
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The main altar with remains of statues still visible |
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| Turpan |
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Intricate brick work on the building housing the karez exhibit |
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| Local dancing for the tourists |
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| Explanation of the karez system |
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| Model of the karez system drawing its waters from the snow-capped Tian Shan mountains and run offs from the nearby Flaming Mountain |
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| Underground canals |
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| Vertical well |
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| Folk crafts on the walls of the visitor centre |
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| The most important local produce is grapes, here being dried. Turpan has the best raisins. |
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| Beautiful Uyghur dancing at lunch |
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Flaming Mountain from different perspectives |
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| This almost looked like a sand dune |
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| Eggs cooked in the sand are very flavorful |
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| More sandstone mountains along the road to Urumqi |
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| We are heading towards Tian Shan in the distance |
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| View from our hotel room on the 32nd floor |
Monday, 2 December 2024
Silk Road - Tian Shan
Tian Shan translates to "Mountain of Heaven" and according to the UNESCO World Heritage site, it is "the largest mountain chain in the world's temperate arid region, and the largest isloated east-west mountain range globally. The Xinjiang portion of the Tianshan runs east-west for 1,760km and is a mountain range of outstanding natural beauty."
It is only an hour and a half's drive from Urumqi to get to the park where we can see the snow-capped mountain but really only the top part of the mountain is visible. We had a leisurely cruise on the Lake of Heaven but it is not a big lake so it didn't take long. We took a gondola up the mountain side to the top where some of the group did a short hike at the top. The rest sat back and relaxed in the coffee shop enjoying the view.
Tian Shan
On the way to Tianchi, the Lake of Heaven, we stopped at a small alpine lake (Eastern Small Tianchi or Black Dragon Pond) with jade green waters - a foretaste of Lake of Heaven.
We also stopped for lunch near this waterfall wih a waterwheel
Finally, the beautiful Tianchi with Tianshan in the distance
Trails around the lake
This tree is regarded as the magic stabilizer and worshipped as such with all the prayers tied to its branches.
Fall colours were emerging
I like how pavillions dot the trails - decorated resting places for people typically depicted in Chinese landscape paintings
We cruised the lake on this traditionally decorated boat
Tian Shan TianChi panorama
The view as we went up on the gondola
At the top
As you can see, most of the trails were built with wood steps as in most National Parks I've been to in China, While it is much easier to walk on gravel trails, steps probably require less maintenance.
Interesting rock formations on the mountains
There would be more fall colours as we travelled north and to higher altitudes in the coming days.
Tian Shan translates to "Mountain of Heaven" and according to the UNESCO World Heritage site, it is "the largest mountain chain in the world's temperate arid region, and the largest isloated east-west mountain range globally. The Xinjiang portion of the Tianshan runs east-west for 1,760km and is a mountain range of outstanding natural beauty."
It is only an hour and a half's drive from Urumqi to get to the park where we can see the snow-capped mountain but really only the top part of the mountain is visible. We had a leisurely cruise on the Lake of Heaven but it is not a big lake so it didn't take long. We took a gondola up the mountain side to the top where some of the group did a short hike at the top. The rest sat back and relaxed in the coffee shop enjoying the view.
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| Tian Shan |
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| On the way to Tianchi, the Lake of Heaven, we stopped at a small alpine lake (Eastern Small Tianchi or Black Dragon Pond) with jade green waters - a foretaste of Lake of Heaven. |
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| We also stopped for lunch near this waterfall wih a waterwheel |
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| Finally, the beautiful Tianchi with Tianshan in the distance |
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| Trails around the lake |
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| This tree is regarded as the magic stabilizer and worshipped as such with all the prayers tied to its branches. |
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Fall colours were emerging |
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I like how pavillions dot the trails - decorated resting places for people typically depicted in Chinese landscape paintings |
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| We cruised the lake on this traditionally decorated boat |
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| Tian Shan TianChi panorama |
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The view as we went up on the gondola |
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| At the top |
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| As you can see, most of the trails were built with wood steps as in most National Parks I've been to in China, While it is much easier to walk on gravel trails, steps probably require less maintenance. |
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| Interesting rock formations on the mountains |
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There would be more fall colours as we travelled north and to higher altitudes in the coming days. |
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Wednesday, 4 December 2024
Silk Road - Hemu
The last stretch of our trip, also the most anticipated, is in the Altai Mountains, in the Kanas area in Northern Xinjiang. It was a three and a half hour flight from Urumqi and another couple of hours on the bus to Hemu. There is a traffic jam just before we entered Hemu, that's how busy this place was because it is high season for fall colours here. The roads to this "secluded" paradise in the Altai Mountains are packed with self-drive SUVs and tour buses. Hemu is also one of only three remaining Tuva villages in China.
We had lunch in a restaurant just outside of the village before heading up for a gondola ride up to the 2800 metre Yunxiao Feng where we are supposed to see four countries - China, Mongolia, Russia and Kazakhstan. Unfortunately all we saw was the sign as there was a sudden whiteout and we couldn't see beyond the viewing platform. Fortunately there was a halfway stop on the gondola and we could at least see part of the spectacular scenery from this point.
The road to Hemu was very scenic, with lovely green, orange and gold on the rolling hills on each side. The village of Hemu is also situated in a gorgeous valley at the height of its autumnal colours. We enjoyed the afternoon doing a short hike up one of the surrounding hills and wandering around the village to see some of the locals dancing to attract customers to their shops. There were demos of naan-making among other things - an overall carnival like atmosphere.
The rooftop of our hotel enabled us to see the village lights at night and the mist coming down from the hills in the morning. No doubt, it would be even more beautiful if we had the energy to venture out for an early morning hike. But there is another big hike up in Kanas scheduled for the day so we had to save our knees!
View of the Altai Mountains from half way up the mountain
Stunning fall colours on the slopes
Panorama of the area
You are supposed to be able to see four countries up on this peak "Yungxiao Feng". But there was a whiteout when we were there so all we could see was the sign! It was also freezing out so it turned out to be a short visit to the 2800 metre peak.
The road to Hemu village is filled with stunning fall colours.
Hemu village from above
A series of switchbacks took us down to the village
The river flows through the village with its distinct wood Tuva houses
Cutting up a goat
A free-running one
Yam roasting contraption
Local naan tastes so good when freshly made
Tuva dancer in the village
Shopping street
These look like homestays in the village
A birch forest just outside the village
Hemu at nightfall
Even more enchanting in the morning mist
The last stretch of our trip, also the most anticipated, is in the Altai Mountains, in the Kanas area in Northern Xinjiang. It was a three and a half hour flight from Urumqi and another couple of hours on the bus to Hemu. There is a traffic jam just before we entered Hemu, that's how busy this place was because it is high season for fall colours here. The roads to this "secluded" paradise in the Altai Mountains are packed with self-drive SUVs and tour buses. Hemu is also one of only three remaining Tuva villages in China.
We had lunch in a restaurant just outside of the village before heading up for a gondola ride up to the 2800 metre Yunxiao Feng where we are supposed to see four countries - China, Mongolia, Russia and Kazakhstan. Unfortunately all we saw was the sign as there was a sudden whiteout and we couldn't see beyond the viewing platform. Fortunately there was a halfway stop on the gondola and we could at least see part of the spectacular scenery from this point.
The road to Hemu was very scenic, with lovely green, orange and gold on the rolling hills on each side. The village of Hemu is also situated in a gorgeous valley at the height of its autumnal colours. We enjoyed the afternoon doing a short hike up one of the surrounding hills and wandering around the village to see some of the locals dancing to attract customers to their shops. There were demos of naan-making among other things - an overall carnival like atmosphere.
The rooftop of our hotel enabled us to see the village lights at night and the mist coming down from the hills in the morning. No doubt, it would be even more beautiful if we had the energy to venture out for an early morning hike. But there is another big hike up in Kanas scheduled for the day so we had to save our knees!
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| View of the Altai Mountains from half way up the mountain |
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Panorama of the area |
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| You are supposed to be able to see four countries up on this peak "Yungxiao Feng". But there was a whiteout when we were there so all we could see was the sign! It was also freezing out so it turned out to be a short visit to the 2800 metre peak. |
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Hemu village from above |
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| A series of switchbacks took us down to the village |
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| The river flows through the village with its distinct wood Tuva houses |
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| Cutting up a goat |
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| A free-running one |
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| Yam roasting contraption |
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| Local naan tastes so good when freshly made |
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Tuva dancer in the village |
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| Shopping street |
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| These look like homestays in the village |
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| A birch forest just outside the village |
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| Hemu at nightfall |
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| Even more enchanting in the morning mist |
Saturday, 7 December 2024
Silk Road - Kanas
Our last day in the Kanas scenic area was packed with sightseeing starting with touring the scenic Three Bays - Wolong Bay, Moon Bay and Shenxian Bay - bends in the Kanas River. These are particularly pretty with the fall colours in the background. We then visited the famous Kanas Lake (Chinese transliteration is Kana-si Lake) and it seemed the whole world was there. We managed to do a short hike along the lake before we started to line up for the shuttle buses to take us to the start of the hike to the "Fish Viewing Pavillioin" which would give us a birds' eye view of Kanas Lake. Looking at the map now, we were actually on the edge of China with Kazakhstan and Russia to the west and north.
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| Panorama of Kanas Lake |
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| Wolong Bay (Crouching dragon bay) |
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| Moon Bay (crescent shaped bay with beautiful S curve) |
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| Shenxian Bay (Fairy bay) |
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| On the way to Kanas Lake |
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| Kanas Lake |
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| Entertainment at the lake |
The hike to the FIsh Viewing Pavillion was another challenge as there were a total of 1068 steps to get to the top and some of us were wavering as to whether to do it or not as it was not just the physical challenge, there was a time factor to it as we had to make the return trip back to the shuttle bus station within two hours, so there was no loitering or taking long rests or photo stops. I did end up making it to the top, thanks again to encouraging morale boosters by fellow travellers. But we did not have a lot of time to enjoy the view even as the sun was getting low over the mountains. It was a breathtaking (in more ways than one!) view of the Altai Mountains and beyond even as we climbed and it was worth the hike.
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The Altai Mountains can be seen on the hike |
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Views as we climbed |
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| View from the very top - there is only marginal difference in the perspective |
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| The "Fish Viewing Pavillion" - apparently so named because it was the best place to watch out for the "monster fish" that was legendary on the lake. THe Pavillion is built at the 2000m above sea level peak. |
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| The number of steps counted! |
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| Sun was setting as we descended |
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| The village at the foot of the mountains |
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| Tuva House seen earlier in the day By the time we got down to the village, it was dark and we still had another thing on our agenda before dinner - a visit to watch the performance of Tuvan musicians. We enjoyed the energetic performance and the music. It was a great way to wrap up our Silk Road trip before we fly back to Urumqi in the morning. |
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| Lady of the house explaining the Tuvan flute |
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| The very energetic singer/dancer |
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| What looked like Urumqi suburbs from the plane |
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| The Grand Bazaar spread over several streets and buildings, right beside a mosqsue, is supposed to be one of the largest bazaars in the world |
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| Urumqi rush hour at dusk |
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| Delicious pumpkin sweet soup dessert |
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| Fresh figs in wrapped lotus leaf - a final treat from our awesome guide who had been treating us to local specialties all along the road! |
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| Very tasty beef tendon with perfect texture |
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| A cut-up chicken probably just for our benefit |
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| Whole sole |
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| Chinese broccoli with whole garlic |
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| After dinner dance performance with audience participation! |
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After dinner stroll in the deisgner mall beside the hotel. Visitors to Urumqi thirty years ago could never have imagined the Urumqi they would see today! |
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| The Altai Mountains, one last time from the plane |
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