Saturday, 22 July 2023

Ireland - Cliffs of Moher and Galway

The Cliffs of Moher is of course the highlight of every Ireland tour.  I had always wondered why.  It is an impressive landscape with its rugged cliff face and layers of sequenced cliffs.  It matters a lot if the sun was on the cliffs when you visit.  When we visited, it was a dark cloudy day and it didn't really do the cliffs justice.  We took a cruise to see the cliffs from the water and they were quite dramatic but not quite the national icon I had expected it to be.  Timing is everything.

I was in fact more fascinated by what little we saw of the Burren before we got to the Cliffs of Moher.  The glacier karst landscape was unique, looking barren from afar but in fact teeming with life when you look closer.  We didn't spend a lot of time here as the guide wanted us to get to the cruise early.  As it turned out, we got to Doolin too early - I would gladly have spent more time on the Burren, a landscape unique to this area.  See for yourself.




Parts of the Burren





A pretty donkey eating its way along the river - like a prop




A picturesque stream behind the village of Doolin



Cruise boat approaching the first headland


The rugged cliff face and a closer view



Layer upon layer of cliffs




Intriguing rock formations at the foot of the cliffs





The cliffs are teeming with bird life, both on the cliffs and in the surrounding waters.  I didn't have my birding lens with me but did the best I could with my 240mm zoom - bit of a joke.


A razorbill in flight















A puffin!



Common murre


This one has two fish in its beak!
A lone puffin among the razorbills

Leaving behind the cliffs

From the Cliffs we headed back to Galway, a vibrant town with lots of music.  The day before we had a walking tour of the town with its colourful, touristy streets.

Eyre Square at the centre of town


Cathedral of Our Lady Assumed in Heaven & St. Nicholas



One of several rose windows in the Cathedral
A Norman castle inside a mall
The River Comb
The estuary



A pretty black-headed gull by the river




Colourful streets of Galway





From Galway, we headed back to Dublin with a stop in the "Tidy Town" of Kinvarra with its own Dunguaire Castle and a picturesque waterfront.

Kinvarra waterfront


Dunguaire Castle 

Our last stop before Dublin was Athlone with its Athlone Castle.  There is not much castle inside, more of a museum.  The most interesting thing was this sandstone slab bearing an elaborate ringed cross with the depiction of St. Mark and St. Luke on either side of the ring.  It's supposed to be the most elaborate surviving commemorative stone of the Irish Early Christian period.



The photogenic accordion player outside the castle


View from the bridge in Athlone


Town of Athlone
 


This wraps up my tour of Ireland. Northern Ireland and the Atlantic Coast was supposed to follow but I have to cancel that segment at the last minute to return home.  The Wild Atlantic Way will have to wait for another trip.  Thank you for coming along.




























Friday, 14 July 2023

Ireland - Ring of Kerry

One of our first stops off the Ring of Kerry was at an ancient churchyard, that of Aghadoe Cathedral, situated on a beautiful spot overlooking the lakes of Killarney.  We walked through the ruins of this church, with an elegant Romanesque doorway still standing, probably dating from the 11th and 12th century,   Our guide pointed out the markings on one of the stones on the wall believed to be an Ogham stone with markings in old Irish.  What a fascinating visit to this place, not on the typical tourist circuit.

Ruins of Aghadoe Cathedral



Decorative stone on wall of cemetery

This is an Ogham stone with markings in old Irish


A short walk from the churchyard are the ruins of a 13th century Norman castle - Parkavonear Castle, one of the few Norman keeps in Ireland built on a cylindrical rather than rectangular plan.  The walls are 2 metres thick.



View of Killarney Lakes from near the castle


We drove by the town of Cahersiveen which looked quite interesting with some quirky shops and pubs.



I find this scenario particularly intriguing - look at how many people are working on this small house all at the same time - I counted eight!  This is quite unusual and likely won't happen in North America, but then, this is Ireland...

It maybe blasphemous to say this, but in my opinion, the Kerry Cliffs, our next stop, is more spectacular than the Cliffs of Moher.  Of course, the Cliffs of Moher may provide a more all round experience as you could hike there and experience it more personally.  The Kerry Cliffs are for some odd reason, on private land, there is a small fee to visit and you could only view it - no hiking.  


Panoramic view of the Kerry Cliffs with the Skellig Islands in the distance




Amazing rock formations





Skellig Islands - something else to come back for



Waterville beach where we had lunch


Encountered a Eurasian jackdaw on the beach - a lifer for me!  It is a member of the crow family but not a crow.
 



At Coomatloukane - a statue of the Virgin Mary facing the road, guess that's why it's called Lady of the Wayside.  On the other side is this lovely view of the Ballingskellig Bay




Gorgeous scenery along the Ring of Kerry




The famous Ladies' View did not disappoint - the sun even broke through after a drizzly couple of hours and gave us a partial golden hour shot.

Irish humour...:-)



Just a drive-by shot - but I can't help but be amazed at how green the place is!

Killarney is a colourful town.  We spent one evening whisky tasting before dinner and enjoying some authentic Celtic music with the group Celtic Steps after dinner. There are plenty of live music venues if you have the stamina to stay in town for it.  Our group mentioned The Grand Hotel and the Danny Mann Pub.



Not a donut fan myself, but can't help but admire this colourful assortment


Downtown Killarney




The inevitable whiskey tasting




A wonderful evening of music with Celtic Steps


Singer and fiddler Roisin Ryan - love her beautiful voice!



Some of these performers are national champions






as if wielding his magic wand would really do it...



A very enjoyable evening to end the long day!