Thursday, 2 August 2018

From the Summer Palace to Ayutthaya, the historical capital

From the modern capital Bangkok, we moved on to Ayutthaya, the historical capital, a UNESCO site. Founded in 1350, Ayutthaya was the largest city in Asia in its heyday and an important trading hub. But it was burnt to the ground when the Burmese invaded in 1767.  We could still see the remnants of the devastation in the ruins today.

On the way to Ayutthaya, we stopped at the Summer Palace, a quiet place in the countryside - a relief after the hustle bustle of Bangkok. The Palace buildings were a mix of Thai, European and Chinese styles. When we entered the Palace rooms where the King held audiences, women were required to put on sarongs over their pants. Beautiful Thai silk sarongs were provided, so it was a nice opportunity to try one on. The quiet grounds were certainly a nice break.  

It was a nice surprise to see some storks flew over us. It turned out that nearby was the winter nesting ground for Asian Openbills migrating from the north. I also caught sight of a Common Myna bird - my second sighting, the first one at the Grand Palace in Bangkok - obviously not so common afterall, a royal bird frequenting royal palaces...;-)

The Chinese building, under renovation, was very elaborate. Apparently, it was gifted to the new king by Chinese merchants in Thailand. We had access to the main hall with its Chinese style decor but were not allowed to take photos of the private interior rooms. It was only when we climbed the tower outside that we saw how elaborate the structure was. 


The first temple we visited in Ayutthaya was the Wat Mahathat known for its Buddha head wrapped around by the roots of a tree - a weird sight but nevertheless considered sacred and visitors were asked to kneel when taking photos. It was an old temple from the 14th century located in the centre of old Ayutthaya. There were many rows of headless buddhas sitting alongside the walls - it was obvious the place had gone through fire and plundering.

We then visited the Wat Chaiwatthanaram, a large temple complex outside the historic Ayutthaya city. It was built in 1630 in the Khmer style, that was why it reminded me of the Pre Rup brick ruins at Angkor Wat, built in a similar style. We arrived in late afternoon, time enough for photos and for us to catch the glow from the setting sun even though it was hidden behind clouds. The ruins were magical in the twilight.

The Summer Palace with its many reflecting pools - and no crowds...



Asian Openbill (stork)

Common Myna


Outside the Chinese complex


The main reception hall in the Chinese style building

The Chinese building seen from the tower



There were many such waterways, this one gated.  It looked like the Summer Palace is accessible by barge - the main building had steps right down to the water (see below).



A Thai squirrel!

Buddha head at Wat Mahathat


The temple complex at Wat Mahathat



Row upon rows of headless buddhas, bricks burnt and plundered

It looked like this buddha was put back together

Wat Chaiwatthanaram - Khmer style, built on a platform with Mount Meru in the centre



The wall surrounding the central platform had 120 sitting buddhas on it.  Each of these chedil-ike chapels have two buddhas inside with wood ceiling and lacquered capitals.



The Temple's Ordination Hall, close to the river and facing west. The two chedis (north and south), each with 12 indented corners, were where the king's mother's ashes were laid. (Wikipaedia)

Magical in the blue hour...



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