Wednesday 14 November 2018

Mt. Rainier National Park

We arrived at Mt. Rainier National Park in the late afternoon after a relatively smooth drive along WA-97 with lots of fall colours already visible.  We drove up to our first viewpoint in the National Park to see Mt. Rainier floating above the clouds - what a wonderful welcome.  We then drove by Reflection Lakes on the way to our lodgings at Longmire and joined the photographers there watching the sun's reflection on the mountain disappear as it set.  It would be the only time we would see that even though we stayed in the park for three nights.   

 
Mt. Rainier at sunset
The following day was cloudy and the mountains were enshrouded in low clouds. It was a good time to photograph the waterfalls - they were all in low light allowing for the slow shutter speed required for silky waters.  We visited Narada Falls and Christine Falls with the lovely old stone bridge above it.  Christine Falls (below) is split into two sections, the top half is on the opposite side of the road. 

 
Top half of Christine Falls
Bottom half








 
Narada Falls


We headed to the Paradise Visitor Centre, the main centre in the Park. There is a beautiful Alpine meadow just behind the visitor centre with its red and yellow fall colours on display.  Little did we know we were missing something on that first day. We did the short hike up to Myrtle Falls and took the requisite photos. It was only when we went back to the Inn and saw a photo of Myrtle Falls that we realized the mountain was missing from ours!  You can see the before and after photos of the falls below.


Myrtle Falls without Mt. Rainier
Myrtle Falls with Mt. Rainier
Beautiful fall colours on the slopes


We also did a hike to Nisqually Vista to see the Nisqually glacier, which sadly has retreated all the way up to the mountain.  The Nisqually River valley was completely dry.


Nisqually Glacier in the distance - it has retreated considerably. Mountain behind the clouds.
We saw some wildlife while we were on the hikes.

A marmot

I think this is a dark-eyed junco

A real Bambi!
Couldn't believe my eyes when I saw tadpoles in one of the Alpine ponds!


This little chipmunk was right at the Visitor Centre waiting for scraps!
 
We were debating whether to stay on for a third night or forefeit our room charge as the forecast was for rain or snow the following day. It was a good thing that we waited till the morning to decide as we woke up to blue skies! So much for mountain weather forecasts!  We saw the mountain and its almost perfect reflection in the lake - even as we were leaving, the water had started to ripple and the reflection was already changing.  We revisited Paradise, took pictures of the meadow with the mountain atop and also retraced our steps to Myrtle Falls just so we could replicate that photo we saw at the Inn - with the mountain above the falls!

Mt. Rainier on a clear monring

Reflection Lake

Mt. Rainier above the meadow behind the Visitor Centre - absent on our first day!
  We then debated whether to do the 2 hour drive over to Sunrise, the visitor centre on the other side of the mountain that would give us a glimpse of the northern slopes of Mt. Rainier. Our main concern being the long drive and given the changeable weather and the appearance of clouds near the top, it could be hit or miss. We decided to take the gamble and made it to Sunrise in under two hours.  A short hike took us to the viewpoint where we could see the north side of Mt. Rainier with its glaciers.  It was worth the drive as it looked quite different from the south face.



The North face of Mt. Rainier from Sunrise

Mt. Adams in the distance

On our way back to our lodgings, we drove by the Grove of the Patriarchs trail and because it was too early for sunset, we decided to take a hike in the grove just to pass the time. This afterthought turned out to be a great hike with lots of amazing trees to see.  And of course, there was no point in rushing as there was no visible sunset that day either.  But we've seen Rainier in all its glory so we left the following day feeling blessed even though it was pouring rain...






Some striking ranges in the National Park


Giant red cedars, wetsern hemlocks and douglas firs abound in the grove.  Some of the cedars are close to a thousand years old.


Root of the giant cedar
Twins 


Our next stop was Mt. St. Helens but we didn't see much because of the rain. It also happened to be National Parks Day with free entrance so there was a crowd there to watch the two interesting films on the eruption and the regeneration of the mountain.  We were again grateful for a brief stop in the rain and a brief lifting of the clouds to allow us to at least see the foot of the crater and the broad expanse of the Toutle River valley below the Johnston Ridge Observatory.  It was impressive nevertheless.  Moral of the story - never allow just one day for an important destination!

PRACTICAL TIPS:
1. Grab your opportunity to take photos of a scene when you saw it, don't wait for another day or even another moment. The moment could disappear even as you hesitated and likely would never appear in the same form again. 
2. Take all forecasts, especially in the mountains, with a grain of salt.  What you see is what you get. Don't plan too far ahead but do always dress in layers.
3. The ranger at any of the Park Visitor Centres could look up the mountain views for you, whether you could see the mountain top or not. This is useful if you want to see what it's like at Sunrise when you were in Paradise and vice versa, they are on opposite sides of the mountain. Of course, there are no guarantees that conditions will remain the same by the time you get there as they are a two-hour drive apart.



View of the foot of the Mt. St. Helens crater and the Toutle Valley (from Johnston Ridge)









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