Travels with rarecat: Hong Kong 2024

I had left Central to the last because it's more familiar territory. I'd grown up in the mid-levels and Central is just a 10 minute dash downhill (shorter if there is an after school film showtime I have to make). Even though buildings and neighbourhoods have changed, I still know the streets and am comfortable walking them. Staying in Kowloon this time, I chose to cross the harbour via the Star Ferry instead of the quick ride on the MTR - always a treat. As we waited on the gangway for the ferry to dock, the old rush of excitement came back and seeing the sailor in the familiar sailor suit brought back childhood memories of ferry crossings.

Hong Kong Central, the skyscraper IFC building with Victoria Peak as backdrop. If you can see the Peak from below, it's usually safe to make it up there for the view, even on a cloudy day as long as the clouds are not low.

The Star Ferry - so glad it's still running and the old sailor suit is still in use!

Central Pier

The harbourfront where we docked was completely new territory. It almost looked like more land had been reclaimed or maybe old areas are rejuvenated. When I was a child, Connaught Road Central was the waterfront street and we had to board up the windows when there was a typhoon. Now of course it is several blocks from the water. But the old shopping streets like Li Yuen St. east and west are still there.

The Harbourfront construction with the Observaion Wheel as centrepiece

The old Bank of China building was the skyscraper of the fifties'. Now it's dwarfed by the new building amongst others.

Inside the IFC (International Finance Centre)

Li Yuen Street - still the same

I love how the Central Market has been kept and restored, albeit nothing like its former self. Seeing the beautiful stairway reminded me of photos taken by the late Hong Kong photographer Ho Fan, the many images he captured of people going up and down those steps. It also brought back childhood memories of shopping trips with my mother - delicious treats as well as traumatic scenes of how live chickens are slaughtered on the spot.

Central Market stairway - the market is now an eclectic mix of eateries and shops selling heritage goods among other things

One of the destinations on this trip was to see the restored Central Police Station and Prison (now called Tai Kwun). This complex was right behind our apartment on Caine Road and we could see it from our kitchen window. It was a dark mysterioius place then and all I remembered was the very steep Old Bailey street beside it which we used to run down to get to Central. I was pleasantly surprised at how the historic building had been restored - but it's a strange contrast to the designer shops across the courtyard. There is an exhibit inside detailing the history of the place.

The fastest way to get up to the Tai Kwun is via the Mid-level escalators - also a great people watching place - plus all the interesting shops above street level that it passes by.

The restored Central Police Station

Shades of the prison house still around - barbed wire, the very effective virtual grates and the ominous metal stairway...

Hollywood Road is right in front of Tai Kwun and the Hollywood Murals are just a five minute walk. Some of the murals are already faded but it was interesting seeing how people pose in front of them.

I like this one

Another old haunt, Peel Street, still looks the same. This used to be a shortcut down to Central before there were any Mid-level escalators!

Street market

Sunset reflected on the Central Plaza behind the Conference Centre

The only colourful sunset I managed to get through a window

People watching on the subway

And here comes the scary image...

As we made our way back to the hotel for a break before going up to the Peak, we hit rush hour traffic on the subway - the size of the crowd was something we have never encountered. What an experience!

Our last stop was the Peak, not exactly Central but I had wanted to get panoramic shots of the city and it is not always accessible - fog and mist often engulf the hilltop. I wasn't able to get shots on my last visit - luckier this time.

The long escalator up at the Peak Tram station

And voilà! The panorama of the City of lights!

Encouraging banners are everywhere, even lit up at night

On the way back down to MTR Central, lots of lights, amid an impressive array of outside and inside walkways