Japan in Autumn - Tokyo

 I visited Japan last spring during cherry blossom season.  I was probably a week too early so while I did see some cherry blossoms and huge crowds, it was not quite the spectacle on travel websites.  But it did give me a first hand experience with the Japanese transportation system.  I was so impressed I decided to go back this fall to do a self-guided trip with my daughter and son-in-law around the country using the shinkansen (high speed train).  We visited 7 cities in 15 days.  I booked all the trains and a few buses a month before and to my relief, everything went without a hitch.  All the bookings went smoothly, the trains were spot on to the minute with no delays and we were able to make transfers at big and small stations on time.  A lot of credit is due to my daughter who quickly learned to navigate the system at the stations, not to mention her expertise at following google maps on the streets (which I have to confess I am hopeless with even though I can follow driving directions without a problem).  Grateful also to my son-in-law for keeping a protective eye on me to make sure I don't get lost hunting for a shot!

We spent three whole days in Tokyo, mostly soaking in the streetscape of the different neighbourhoods.  You won't see a lot of iconic Tokyo tourist sites here as we didn't visit any other than the Meijijingu  - a revisit for me so I had focused on the people.  The Shibuya Scramble Crossing was a highlight and truly the "wow" experience for me.  The big disappointment was the unexpected closure of the two museums on my itinerary - the Nezu Museum and the Sumida Hokusai Museum.  November 1st was a long weekend dedicated to Culture Day in Japan.  I think the museums opened on Monday (when they were normally closed) to celebrate Culture Day and closed on Tuesday instead.  I had noted the normal Monday closure when building the itinerary but missed the Culture Day aspect.  All the more reason for another trip...

Our Shinjuku hotel was a pleasant 15 minute walk to the Meiji Shrine.  It being a Sunday of a long weekend, there were lots of people, including locals who were there to celebrate the Autumn Festival at the shrine.  Chrysanthemums were the theme and many adults and children were dressed in kimonos with the motif.  We visited some interesting side streets just outside the shrine area before heading to the Shimokitazawa neighbourhood, a trendy, bohemian area known for unique coffee shops and vintage clothing stores.  We went back to Shibuya at night for the awesome sight of the crowds at the Shibuya Scramble Crossing.  It was a packed first day.

One of the beautiful Tori gates at the Meiji Shrine bears a repeat

Gorgeous chysanthemums on show at the shrine

Chrysanthemum bonsais!

This elegant young lady was happy to show off her stunning chrysanthemum kimono

Young couple with newborn baby happy to pose

Prescious!

Performers headed to the ceremonial dance

A long shot of the ceremonial dance - a reward for braving the crowds on a long weekend

The beautiful architecture of the Meijijingu above the crowds

The eaves at the shrine are fine examples of Japanese wood joinery technique

We ventured out onto the streets after our visit to the shrine - walked by some of the couture houses on Omotesando Street before cutting through some side streets to Takeshita Street, famous for its youth culture, fashion and sweets.

Not dessert but soaps!

Harujuku Street fashion - this seems to be all the rage

A surprise art deco building in Harajuku area

Sign says "Free diagnosis today" at a palm reading store - funny how people outside immediately looked at their own palms to compare with what's up on the chart!

The tallest chip stack

The biggest cotton candy!

Shopping streets in the Shimokitazawa neighbourhood.  This is the tourist section.

Parents and kids were lining up for group Halloween celebration event

A more subdued gentrified section of the Shimokitazawa district

A reprieve from the crowds in this coffee shop, relaxing with Leonard Cohen in the midst of bustling Tokyo.

Families walking home after the Halloween celebration

Restaurant specializing in fermented foods beside a closed aesthetic salon.

Bonus golden hour shot of the Docomo Yoyogi building, a landmark in the Shinjuku Yoyogi area, reminiscent of the Empire State building.

Shibuya Scramble Crossing is truly a sight to behold!  Unbelievable crowds.  This was taken from the walkway to Shibuya Station above the bus turnaround area.

What it feels like to be right in the crossing, with the crowd.  Tourists would pose for a shot in the middle of the road.

Just a little distance from the crowd

Birds' eye view of the crossing in full swing!