Friday, 12 December 2025

Japan in Autumn - Nagano

Nagano is just a couple of hours north of Tokyo and we got there late morning on the Shinkansen after transferring from a local commuter train out of Tokyo.  Having seen an Instagram post on the cedar promenade at Togakushi Shrine, I made that a priority on my itinerary.  We dropped off our luggage at the hotel before catching the express bus to the shrine.  We took the bus right up to Okusha, the upper shrine, as it is a long hike up from the lower shrine, and we wouldn't be able to make it back to the bus before sunset in these short Novemebr days.

The cedar promenade is as stunning as I'd seen in photos. The first part of the trail is an easy hike through the cedars but the actual climb to the shrine is quite steep and slippery.  The hike back provided yet another pleasurable perspective with fall colours emerging.  Aside from seeing the spectacular cedars, the visit was a refreshing change after the city.

The second morning we headed for the Jigokudani Snow Monkey Park, the top item on our Nagano list.  It was another hour long hike up to the park from the bus stop but made much more palatable with the gorgeous fall colours.  The monkeys were hilarious and it was a fun visit.

We made it back to Nagano with a couple of hours left before sunset and after a coffee break, we decided to check out the Obasute rice fields since it was just a half hour train ride from Nagano. 


The impressive Shinkansen trains that took us around Japan during the 15 day trip without a hitch.  Every train we booked was on time to the minute.  Boarding and deboarding was swift  with passengers (inluding ourselves) who all seemed well-trained to keep the relentless pace of these trains.  

The road to the Togakushi Shrine was at peak for fall colours

Tori gate at the entrance to the Upper Shrine


Cedar-lined trail to the shrine

These are komainu, mythical lion dogs, often used to guard shinto shrines, believed to ward off evil spirits and protect sacred grounds. 




The cedar promenade continues on the other side of the red gatehouse

The trail up to the shrine with a stream running beside




The shrine itself is an anti-climax after the specatcular hike



The hike back 





The road to the Jigokudani Snow Monkey Park was also peaking with brilliant reds







More cedars on the way to the Snow Monkey Park



The hot spring where the monkeys hang out













Parenting can be tedious

















"I've had it!

Nothing like a dip in the onsen to soother the nerves



A different perspective on the hike back








We had a coffee break before we headed out to Obasute for the rice fields.  Autumn is chestnut season and this dessert is covered with chestnut paste, inside and out!




The Obasute rice fields with the town in the distance.  This is not quite the season for rice fields viewing as there is no water but seeing the terraced rice fields was still interesting.





And this train station seems out of a movie set




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