Showing posts with label sea lions. Show all posts
Showing posts with label sea lions. Show all posts

Wednesday, 5 December 2018

The dramatic Oregon coast - South

We didn't realize it at the time but our last two days on the Oregon coast turned out to be the most exciting ones. Cape Perpetua, a volcanic remnant a short drive from Yachats, has some very dramatic rock formations which provided some phenomenal seascapes.

Cape Perpetua in the distance

Based on online suggestions, we visited the area at high tide to get the highest waves crashing against the coastline with its myriads of rock formations like the Devil's Churn, Thor's Well and Spouting Horn. We checked the tide tables before we headed out and it truly was quite a spectacle.


"Spouting Horn" - the tide rushed up Cook's Chasm (first sighted by Captain Cook) then spouted through a hole - endless fascination for spectators waiting to see the highest spout...

Another spout where the tide went almost underground then spouted through this break in the surface



It was mind-boggling watching some photographers risk their lives to take that "must-have" iconic shot. You can see below how one over the top wave or one slip of the foot could have sent these two photographers hovering over Thor's Well into the ocean. The swell at high tide must have been over 10 feet before it hit the outside wall of the well.


Half an hour before high tide at Thor's Well


High tide at Thor's Well - you can't see the other side of the well

One of the many chasms along this stretch that allowed the tide to rush in and create whipped cream like swirls





Heceta Head LIghthouse just before Florence - we took the trail leading up to this historic lighthouse that sends out the strongest beam of light on the Coast. The view down the coast from the lighthouse was quite pretty and worth the hike. The historic lighthouse keeper's quarters are now a bed and breakfast - it was full when we tried to book it six months before our trip - obviously a popular destination.    
View from the Lighthouse


After Cape Perpetua, the Oregon Dunes was the most unique feature in the south. The dunes stretched from Florence down to North Bend. We saw one section of the dunes near Florence on our way down to Bandon Beach where we spent our last two nights on the Oregon coast. 



View from the Oregon Dunes Overlook - the dunes stretched all the way down the coast

Looking down at the trail from the overlook  
Bandon was just an hour from the dunes so we were able to visit the southern section of the Oregon dunes the following day. We would have missed this even more spectacular section of the dunes if we didn't see a photo of the Dellenback Dunes in the "Mile-by-Mile" publication.


The Dellenback trail is 5.5miles over sand all the way to the sea, not an easy hike. We opted just to do the 1 mile interpretive loop trail which took us to the huge sand dunes and gave us a taste of the desert without being too strenuous. We felt our knees nevertheless the following day because it was tough walking in sand.

The Dellenback Dunes are further south and seemed bigger.

Not quite the Sahara but good enough...

Curvaceous!
Bandon Beach was even more spectacular than Cannon Beach, more remote and much quieter. This whole southern stretch is very scenic and much less commercialized than the north coast. Close to Bandon are a couple of coastal lookouts - FaceRock Park and Coquille Point with Bandon Beach in between.  They provide views of Bandon Beach from the north and south. 


View from FaceRock State Park


View from Coquille Point
We also took the scenic drive to Shore Acres State Park, which used to be the grand estate of timber baron Louis Simpson. It included a formal garden, an Oriental garden, hiking trails and its own private beach.

View from Shore Acres

The formal garden inside the estate

The Oriental Garden

The secluded private beach
Along the scenic drive, there are lookouts on a sea lion colony. Somewhere north along Hwy 101 is a business charging quite a few bucks for you to visit their sea lion cave but didn't guarantee a sea lion sighting. Skip that and come here to watch the sea lions cavort in the waves instead.


Sea lion colony


Several pods of pelicans returning home in late afternoon near Shore Acres




The Conde McCullough Memorial Bridge on the way south to Bandon
We made sure we arrived back at our Inn before dark so we could enjoy sunset on the beach. It was a cold and windy evening so the beach was deserted, but the sunset was spectacular. It was our last evening on the coast - surely a place we would like to come back to.


View from our balcony - miles of beach and not a soul



Goodnight, Bandon!

 Next post: Heading inland to Crater Lake



Tuesday, 25 April 2017

Patagonia - Ushuaia, "el fin del mundo"

After an exhilarating few days having our breaths taken away by the magnificent landscapes in Patagonia, we were ready for the last stop on our Patagonian journey - Ushuaia, "el fin del mundo"  as the Argentinians called it (the end of the world). After a short 1.5 hr flight from El Calafate, we arrived in Ushuaia - a bustling town, the capital of Tierra del Fuego, a busy port for cruise ships and also hopping off point for adventure trips to Antartica. There were any number of excellent restaurants and our first night we headed straight for the fisherman's restaurant to try the king crab. We picked our own live crab and it was quite an experience. More later on Foodsparks, the food blog.

The main reason for our visit to Ushuaia was to see the penguins on Martillo Island and a zoologist had delivered an interesting lecture on penguins the evening of our arrival to prepare us for the trip.  In the morning we boarded a catamaran that took us down the Beagle channel.  Along the way we saw king cormorants and other birds in flight - there were islands full of sea lions and cormorants. There was a slight wind and the sea was just slightly choppy, enough to make a few people sea-sick, but not too badly.

The catamaran took us to the Estancia Harberton, a historic farm founded in 1886, the oldest in Tierra del Fuego.  From there, we boarded a zodiac which took us to Martillo Island. All through the trip, we were entertained by a charming naturalist (his name is Valentin!) who gave us interesting details delivered in inimitable style - this guy is a natural showman, which certainly enhanced our enjoyment of the trip.  

We were lucky that one lone King Penguin was sitting on the beach as we landed. The rest were Magellanic and Gentoo penguins. We were warned to keep at least 2 or 3 metres from the penguins in order not to disturb them.  The guide took us through to the rookery where the penguins were mottling. The young penguins had already left the nest at this time of the year, in fact, in a few weeks (in April), these penguins would all be gone.  The penguin pairs were fascinating to watch and we had to be dragged away when our hour on the island was up.There were not only penguins on the island, we saw at least 10 different kinds of birds and you can see some of them below.

We had lunch at the Estancia and a guided tour of the museum which had a huge collection of whale bones. The trip back to Ushuaia was on a 4x4 bus!  It was quite a day! It was topped off at dinner by a treat of merluza negra (Patagonian toothfish), the sweetest fish I have ever tasted in my life (no exaggeration), a far cry from the frozen Chilean sea bass, the closest thing to this we could sink our teeth into at home.  


I was lucky to capture some cormorants in flight - no wonder, there were several  islands full of them in the Beagle Channel 



And islands full of sea lions AND cormorants

A Southern Giant Petrel - note the tube beak


This looked like a Chilean Skua
 

Sandpiper in flight

The lone King Penguin on Martillo Island - the Gentoo penguins were keeping it company





This photo gives a better idea of the rookery
An informative chart showing the annual cycle of the Magellanic Penguins - note how they will be migrating from mid-April to mid-September so they won't be on the island.

It was molting season for the Magellanic penguins, there were feathers everywhere! And they were helping each other clean up...


Peaceful coexistence of the different kinds of birds on the island...
Upland Geese

Sooty Shearwater
Skua


Caracara

Upland sandpiper
Gentoo penguin drinking
Social gathering
Waiting?
 
Taking a stroll along the beach (King cormorants)

The zodiac that took us back to the Estancia

Local guide Valentin hamming it up for the paparazzi...

The historic Estancia Haberton

The 4x4 that took us back to Ushuaia


We stopped by this lookout of the river between the windblown flag trees
Back to Ushuaia, at the foot of the Martial Range
 
Goodbye, beautiful Patagonia!
We flew back to Buenos Aires the following day...


Next post:  Buenos Aires, the "Paris of the South America"