Japan in Autumn - Tokyo

 I visited Japan last spring during cherry blossom season.  I was probably a week too early so while I did see some cherry blossoms and huge crowds, it was not quite the spectacle on travel websites.  But it did give me a first hand experience with the Japanese transportation system.  I was so impressed I decided to go back this fall to do a self-guided trip with my daughter and son-in-law around the country using the shinkansen (high speed train).  We visited 7 cities in 15 days.  I booked all the trains and a few buses a month before and to my relief, everything went without a hitch.  All the bookings went smoothly, the trains were spot on to the minute with no delays and we were able to make transfers at big and small stations on time.  A lot of credit is due to my daughter who quickly learned to navigate the system at the stations, not to mention her expertise at following google maps on the streets (which I have to confess I am hopeless with even though I can follow driving directions without a problem).  Grateful also to my son-in-law for keeping a protective eye on me to make sure I don't get lost hunting for a shot!

We spent three whole days in Tokyo, mostly soaking in the streetscape of the different neighbourhoods.  You won't see a lot of iconic Tokyo tourist sites here as we didn't visit any other than the Meijijingu  - a revisit for me so I had focused on the people.  The Shibuya Scramble Crossing was a highlight and truly the "wow" experience for me.  The big disappointment was the unexpected closure of the two museums on my itinerary - the Nezu Museum and the Sumida Hokusai Museum.  November 1st was a long weekend dedicated to Culture Day in Japan.  I think the museums opened on Monday (when they were normally closed) to celebrate Culture Day and closed on Tuesday instead.  I had noted the normal Monday closure when building the itinerary but missed the Culture Day aspect.  All the more reason for another trip...

Our Shinjuku hotel was a pleasant 15 minute walk to the Meiji Shrine.  It being a Sunday of a long weekend, there were lots of people, including locals who were there to celebrate the Autumn Festival at the shrine.  Chrysanthemums were the theme and many adults and children were dressed in kimonos with the motif.  We visited some interesting side streets just outside the shrine area before heading to the Shimokitazawa neighbourhood, a trendy, bohemian area known for unique coffee shops and vintage clothing stores.  We went back to Shibuya at night for the awesome sight of the crowds at the Shibuya Scramble Crossing.  It was a packed first day.

One of the beautiful Tori gates at the Meiji Shrine bears a repeat

Gorgeous chysanthemums on show at the shrine

Chrysanthemum bonsais!

This elegant young lady was happy to show off her stunning chrysanthemum kimono

Young couple with newborn baby happy to pose

Prescious!

Performers headed to the ceremonial dance

A long shot of the ceremonial dance - a reward for braving the crowds on a long weekend

The beautiful architecture of the Meijijingu above the crowds

The eaves at the shrine are fine examples of Japanese wood joinery technique

We ventured out onto the streets after our visit to the shrine - walked by some of the couture houses on Omotesando Street before cutting through some side streets to Takeshita Street, famous for its youth culture, fashion and sweets.

Not dessert but soaps!

Harujuku Street fashion - this seems to be all the rage

A surprise art deco building in Harajuku area

Sign says "Free diagnosis today" at a palm reading store - funny how people outside immediately looked at their own palms to compare with what's up on the chart!

The tallest chip stack

The biggest cotton candy!

Shopping streets in the Shimokitazawa neighbourhood.  This is the tourist section.

Parents and kids were lining up for group Halloween celebration event

A more subdued gentrified section of the Shimokitazawa district

A reprieve from the crowds in this coffee shop, relaxing with Leonard Cohen in the midst of bustling Tokyo.

Families walking home after the Halloween celebration

Restaurant specializing in fermented foods beside a closed aesthetic salon.

Bonus golden hour shot of the Docomo Yoyogi building, a landmark in the Shinjuku Yoyogi area, reminiscent of the Empire State building.

Shibuya Scramble Crossing is truly a sight to behold!  Unbelievable crowds.  This was taken from the walkway to Shibuya Station above the bus turnaround area.

What it feels like to be right in the crossing, with the crowd.  Tourists would pose for a shot in the middle of the road.

Just a little distance from the crowd

Birds' eye view of the crossing in full swing!

Kenya - Nakuru National Park

 Nakuru, our last game stop on this trip, is a long two-hour drive from Naivasha.  With traffic jams on the highway, the driver took a short cut which turned out to be another bumpy ride on gravel roads.  We were happy we finally got to the National Park and greeted right at the entrance by a mountain gray woodpecker, with an insect in its beak nonetheless.  It was also interesting to see several school buses with children in school uniforms, some of them even waving cell phones at us.  It seems that these children are out on end of school year field trips - it was nice to see that happening.

Since we were still missing one of the Big Fives - the rhinoceros, we were counting on Nakuru to cough up that last sighting.  And we were not disappointed.  After the driver pointed out a white and a black rhinoceros at an impossible distance, we drove around and finally found one sleeping under a tree.  We came back to the same spot after lunch, and to our excitement, it got up on its feet for us to photograph!  Five minutes later, it's back in its sleeping position again.  This whole episode highlighted how a lot of what we saw on safaris depend on luck, perseverance and of course driver/guide knowledge of the area.  We have been lucky to have good guides who worked hard at their jobs.

There were lots of bird life around the lake, but as expected, the huge flocks of flamingos are no longer around.  We saw just a few flamingos and a small group in the distance.  So I was glad we got some nice shots in Amboseli.  But it was the first time I saw a Waterbuck and with a young calf to boot.  I also chanced upon a surprise lifer - a Pink-backed Pelican that I had initially thought was a juvenile white pelican at a distance.  

We had a picnic lunch at the waterfall at the same time as the students.  It was heartening to see the teacher taking individual photos of the students in their uniforms at the waterfall - I am guessing it would be for their year book if their school traditions are like ours.  

The drive back to Naivasha was uneventful.  By the time we got to Naivasha it was late on Friday afternoon and there were lots of Kenyans on the street on their way home from school/work, some obviously heading out to a Friday evening on the town. 

We enjoyed a last sunset then sunrise on the lake and after a morning tour of the property, left for Nairobi after lunch.  We headed straight for the airport for our flights home.  This wrapped up an amazing 3 weeks on the continent.  

Lake Nakuru is huge - this is just a small part of the lake in the distance

Cattle crossing on the way to the park

Watering hole in the park

Giraffe conference - note these giraffes are different from the ones in the Mara.  They have smooth outlines on their patches.

White Pelicans on the lake.  

Pink-backed pelican - a surprise lifer.  I had thought they were juvenile whites from a distance.

A Little Egret -very similar to the Snowy egrets I saw in California, in fact slightly bigger in spite of its name.  

Cormorant with big fish!

Waterbuck and calf

Mountain Gray Woodpecker

Gray-headed kingfisher

White-fronted bee-eater

Long-crested eagle

Northern ant-eater chat

One last shot of the beautiful Lilac-breasted roller, here with all its colours clearly seen on a cloudy day

First time we saw higher ground on this trip

Bus load of school children on field trip 

Students at the waterfall, some in school uniforms for their school photo

Cape Buffalo - one of the Big Five

Black rhinoceros on the left and white rhinoceros on the right - both very far away

White rhinoceros at rest - got up briefly (five minutes!) for our cameras

Baboon and young

Such maternal concentration was testing the patience of the young one

Pair of Tawny Eagles

African fish eagle out on a hunt

On the road back to Naivasha:

Students in unitorms walking home after school

Friday afternoon on the town - curious to know where everyone is headed!

One last sunset

One last sunrise

This wraps up the Africa series.  Thanks for coming along!